Christmas time here is Veracruz is unique not only within Latin America, but also within Mexico. Beginning about mid-December, posadas and la rama are expressions of the holiday season.

Posadas (inns) are held throughout Mexico and are generally religious fiestas in which people ask for shelter for the baby Jesus. In my suegra’s house, one group of people goes outside with candles and a ceramic baby dressed in white. The other group stays inside. Together, we sing a call-and-answer song that depicts the biblical moment in which Mary and Joseph went looking for an inn. We huddle together and drink warm ponche (punch) and eat pambazos (round, bean, lettuce and tomato sandwiches). The night ends with a piñata and plenty of treats for everyone.

There is another tradition here that seems to be particular to the area. It’s called la rama (the branch). Like the posadas, la rama takes place between December 16 and December 24. Children anywhere from 5 to 15 find a branch and decorate it with tinsel, ornaments, balloons, stars or any other piece of festive material. They then go door to door singing a song and requesting treats, drink or even money. They often make their own instruments: bottle caps on a wire serve as rattles; glass soda bottles make for great maracas; and maybe even a tambourine or a guitar.

These festivities are only those leading up to noche buena (Christmas Eve). On noche buena, my husband’s family gets together to celebrate with ponche and tamales until midnight, at which point we all sit down to Christmas dinner. We spend the night, laughing, talking, eating and drinking. Then, on Christmas day, we meet up again for the recalentado, or leftovers (literally, reheated). Christmas is a magical time anywhere, but this is especially true here in Xalapa.

Vocabulary

Navidad – Christmas
Posada – Inn
Las posadas – Celebration
La rama – The branch, literally
Ponche – A hot, natural fruit punch
Noche buena – Christmas Eve
Recalentado – Leftovers, literally re-heated